As part of the introduction section of the calalogue for the 1918 Estate Sale an overview of the histories of the two villages was given. This provides a somewhat different overview, as it is presented from the viewpoint of the vendor and their agent, so includes much of the history of the two Manors and how they became linked, as well as the history of the families in question. Being written in 1918 it also references the use of the avenue on Dunsmore Heath for the review by King George V of the 29th Division prior to their departure for Gallipoli – with appropriate wartime limits on describing that campaign.
Newnham Regis
Of the early history but little is known, as in the Domesday Survey it is included in the Manor of Church Lawford, the Mill only being mentioned as then of the annual value of 10s. 6d. Dugdale, the historian of Warwickshire in Stewart times, supposed it to have belonged to Earl Mellent, or Turchill de Warwick, as 3rd Henry I., it was of the fee of Roger, Earl of Warwick, who passed it to Hugh fil Richardi, who conveyed it to Geoffrey de Clinton, one of the great nobles and Chamberlain and Treasurer of King Henry I., who possessed extensive estates in adjoining parishes.
On his foundation of the Abbey of Kenilworth, amongst other benefactions, he gave them this Manor, quit of all secular services either to himself or the King. Geoffrey had purchased the Manor from the above Hugh on payment of 10 marks of silver, to Hugh’s wife Margaret 2 ounces gold, and to the Earl of Warwick 2 gold rings, each set with a precious stone.. King Henry II. confirmed the grant to the monks, further granting them right of free warren and power to hold a Court leet. As there were other Newnhams in the neighbourhood, Regis was affixed in indication of the Royal favour, though in 1287 King Edward I.’s Attorney challenged the prior of Kenilworth’s title, claiming that King Richard I. held it. The prior seems to have proved his rights, for the Abbey remained in quiet possession till Henry VIII. dissolved the monasteries. It may be of interest here to notice the value of land at this latter period. In the seventeenth year of King Henry VIII. the prior of Kenilworth granted a lease of 51 years of all the demesne lands here, with their pastures, called Elthiron (pronounced Elfren), and with four closes then called Morley’s, Bretford, Sondepitte, and Rollesham, together with the water mill and the holme, or piece of land surrounded by the river, with the fishing, also their tythe corn growing within the lordship at £24 2s. per annum, viz.: for the site of the Manor House and demesnes and Elthiron and the four closes £17 2s., for the water mill, holme, and fisheries £3, and for the tythe corn £4. The lease was abruptly terminated when King Henry seized the lands, which then remained with the Crown, till the seventh year of Edward VI., they were granted to John, Duke of Northumberland, but upon his attainder in the first year of Queen Mary’s reign they were acquired by Sir Roland Hill, an Alderman of London, who gave them as a marriage portion to his niece, Alice Barker, wife of Sir Thomas Leigh, a merchant of London, Sheriff of London, and Lord Mayor at the death of Queen Mary, 1558, who in the second year of the Queen’s reign had acquired the Manor of Church Lawford, since when the two Manors have descended in the same ownership. Sir Thomas Leigh died 1571, and was buried in Mercer’s Chapel, London. The three sons of Sir Thomas were Roland (who possessed Adlestroр, County Gloucester), Thomas (who got Stoneleigh Abbey, County Warwick, but whose line became extinct in 1806, when his estates reverted to the senior branch at Adlestrop), while the third son, William, received his mother’s estate of Newnham, as also Church Lawford, Dunchurch, and Thurlaston. He was succeeded by his only son, Sir Francis Leigh, K.B., who in turn had an only son, Sir Francis, who in 1618 was created a baronet, in 1628 Baron Dunsmore, and in 1644 Earl of Chichester. His lordship was a Governor of Rugby School, and dying 21st December, 1653, was buried in the church at Newnham. Being a Royalist, his deer park was frequently raided by the Parliamentary troops at Coventry.
As the Earl left no male issue, his estates were inherited by his eldest daughter, Lady Elizabeth, wife of Thomas Wrothesley, fourth Earl of Southampton, of Beaulieu Abbey, Hants, whose only surviving child, Lady Elizabeth, brought the estates to her second husband, Ralph Montagu, son of Edward, Lord Montagu of Boughton, Northants. In 1688 Ralph was created Earl of Montagu. His Lordship was Ambassador to the French Court, and died in 1709. The two eldest sons dying under age, the youngest, John, became Lord of this Manor, as also of the other estates of his father. His Grace was known as “John the Planter” from his extensive planting of trees on all his estates; he it was who in 1740 planted the noble avenue extending along Dunsmore Heath from Stretton-on-Dunsmore to and beyond Dunchurch, and now historic owing to the review on 12th March 1915, under its shade by King George V. of the immortal 29th Division of his army previous to their departure to Gallipoli to distinguish themselves in the war at present raging. His Grace had the married Lady Mary, fourth daughter of John Churchill, first Duke of Marlborough, the latter nobleman possibly assisting at the planting, as he had done in planting trees on his son in law’s estate at Boughton to represent the formation of the opposing armies at the battle of Blenheim. surviving daughter, The only son of their marriage dying in his parents’ lifetime, their youngest and only surviving daughter, Lady Mary, brought the estates to her husband, George Brudenell, fourth Earl of Cardigan, who in 1766 was created Duke of Montagu, but dying in 1790, and predeceased in 1776 by his only son John, his Grace was succeeded by his only daughter, Lady Elizabeth, who in 1767 had married Henry Scott, third Duke of Buccleuch, and fifth Duke of Queensberry, K.G., K.T.
It was during her Grace’s lifetime that Sir John Parnell, Postmaster-General, attempted to obtain an Act of Parliament for power to cut down the avenue, and we have to thank her Grace’s determined opposition for its preservation. On her Grace’s death in 1827 she was succeeded in the Newnham, Church Lawford, Dunchurch, Cawston, and Thurlaston Estates by her grandson, the Lord John Douglas Montagu-Douglas-Scott, who in 1836 married Alicia Annie Spottiswood, eldest daughter of John Spottiswood, of Spottiswood, County Berwick, the authoress of “Annie Laurie” and other well-known songs. His lordship was the founder of the Rugby and Dunchurch Agricultural Society, a Governor of Rugby School, and so model a landowner that his tenantry erected a monument to his memory at Dunchurch.
On his lordship’s death in 1860 without issue these estates passed to his eldest brother, Walter Francis, fifth Duke of Buccleuch and seventh Duke of Queensberry, K.G., who married Lady Charlotte Annie Thynne, daughter of Thomas, second Marquis of Bath. His Grace died 1884, and was succeeded by his eldest son, William Henry Walter, sixth Duke of Buccleuch, etc., etc., K.G., K.T., who married Lady Louisa Jane Hamilton, third daughter of James, Duke of Abercorn, K.G. Her Grace was Mistress of the Robes to Queens Victoria and Alexandra. His Grace transferred the estates to his eldest surviving son, John Charles, now seventh Duke of Buccleuch, etc., etc., who 30th January, 1893, married Lady Margaret Alice Bridgeman, second daughter of the fourth Earl of Bradford.
As one of the old Roman roads-the Fosse Way-passes by Church Lawford and Newnham Regis, it might have been expected that some traces of the Roman occupation would have been found, but such has not been the case, though it is highly probable that the mineral springs would be well known to them and used by the passing and re-passing troops and traders. Possibly they were known to Queen Elizabeth during her visits to Warwickshire, for in 1582 her physician, Walter Bailey, published a discourse concerning their merits, as at that period they were “then of great celebrity” and “particularly efficacious in several complaints the flesh is heir to.” In an old Coventry newspaper dated 5th August, 1776, under the heading, “An Old World Inland Watering Place,” appeared a 58-line ode extolling the medicinal virtues of these waters, a footnote thereto says: “These waters are exceedingly efficacious in removing disorders, particularly the scurvy, leprosy, ulcers, the evil, inflammation of the eyes, rheumatism, etc.” At one time a bath was in existence here, but probably the near proximity of Leamington Spa, with all its facilities for internal and external use of the waters there, caused this one to languish. When in use the water was said to be very cold indeed, similar in intensity to the famous “holy well” at Holywell, North Wales. The surroundings of the neighbourhood are ideal for making again “an old world inland watering place.”
In 1815, when digging for limestone, some very valuable discoveries were made, viz.: In a well-like cistern four urns of ashes, three of which were unfortunately broken and scattered. Also magnificent heads and bones of elephant, rhinoceros, hippopotamus, ox, horse and stag, horns of the latter being 2ft. 6in. long; also molar teeth and tusks of elephants, while in 1822 an elephant’s tusk in 6ft. in length was found. These were found at a depth of 15ft. from the surface, and were not the least mineralised.
Near the church formerly stood a tumulus, in which, on being removed, was found in an upright position the skeleton of a man of extraordinary dimensions. Near by under ground was another skeleton laid level with the surface and buried with the feet to the north. Extensive evidence of pagan burials have been found, usually at great depth below the ground, especially in and around the site of the church, as also below the foundations of the tower.
A church formerly stood in the park adjoining the mansion of the above-mentioned Earl of Chichester, of which only a portion of the tower remains, the church itself being demolished about 1780, the interior of which was beautified by mural paintings said to be by Jacob Joedaens, a pupil of Rubens; these represented copies of his great master’s works, “The Descent from the Cross,” “The Visit of the Magi,” “The Four Evangelists,” and over the west doorway a representation of “Death;” these were ruthlessly destroyed when the church was desecrated; the only known relics- the head of Christ and portions of the faces of the Evangelists-are in the museum of Rugby School.
The ruins and the churchyard were in such a dilapidated condition that in 1852 the late Lord John Scott had the debris removed so as to define the site of the church. In making the necessary excavations great surprises were met with. In the church itself skeletons and crumbling coffins were numerous, while on the site of the chancel were found six leaden coffins, the outer wooden ones in which they were enclosed having rotted away. All of these contained in inner leaden coffins perfectly preserved bodies, the flesh being quite plump as though still alive and lying asleep, even the hands not being wasted, and the hair fine and glossy, the linen, etc., being also in good condition. One of the bodies was that of the Earl of Chichester, the inscription on the breast-plate reading, “Here lyeth the body of Francis Earl of Chichester and Lord Dunsmore, who was the happiest man living so long as his deare wife, ye Lady Audrey, Countesse of Chichester and Lady Dunsmore, lived, who was eldest daughter of John Lord Butler of Bramfield, and the best of wives and women. She died the 16th of September, 1652, since which time he never had the least content, joye, or comfort, till now that he lieth by hur agayne, and with whose soule he hopes by the merit and passion of Christ he will rejoyce for ever. He died the 21st of September, 1653.” Another coffin contained the body of the Countess, another that of their daughter, whose face was very beautiful. Lord John Scott put a “brass” over her grave bearing a copy of the inscription on the breast-plate: “
“Heare. is. enclosed. the
body. of. Mrs.. Audrey. Leigh
eldest. daughter. of. Frans
Lord. Dunsmore. who. died. 28. Janvary. 1640.”
Another coffin had the body of Dame Marie Brown, sister of Lord Chichester, whilst another was of Sir John Anderson, son of Lady Chichester’s first husband. Another coffin contained a perfectly embalmed body of a man who had been beheaded; there was no inscription on the coffin, but on his linen shirt were the letters “T. B.” worked in black silk. It is supposed that he was a Royalist officer who suffered the same fate as his King. The mansion of the Earl of Chichester was pulled down in 1776-7 and the park cut up into fields. Some years ago limestone was extensively worked here. Some of the farms on the estate have been occupied from father to son for three centuries; others which by marriage only passed into other names claim to have been in continuous occupation from the fifteenth century.
CHURCH LAWFORD.
In Saxon times spelt Leillforde, and later Lalleford, derived from Lecian, wet, and Ford, a ford, the frequent inundations of the river, in those drainless days, giving rise to the name, the local pronunciation being silent on the double “l,” it became written, as spoken, Lawford, the prefix Church being to distinguish it from two adjoining parishes-Long and Little Lawford-included ecclesiastically in Newbold-on-Avon.
The Domesday Survey gives Chetelbert as the Saxon owner, and the value as 40 shillings annual. It contained five hides; arable seven ploughs, one in the demesne; meadow 11 acres; mill 10s. 6d; a population of nine villeins, 17 labourers, two bondsmen, two foreigners, or 30 families, and probably 140 inhabitants.
It passed to the Norman Earl Roger, of whom Rainald held it, at a yearly rental of 50 shillings. Temp. King. Henry II. it was owned by the Hayrums, and in the reign of Edward II. the De Lallefords possessed it, one of whom, William, temp. Edward III., granted the Manor to the Whythors, from whom it passed to the Staffords, Dukes of Buckingham, and so continued till the 13th year of Henry VIII., when Edward, Duke of Buckingham, was attainted, and his lands forfeited to the Crown, this Manor being then granted to Thomas, Marquis of Dorset, but on the attainder of his father, Henry, Duke of Suffolk, it again reverted to the Crown. In the second year of Queen Mary it passed into the possession of Thomas Leigh, an Alderman of London, from which time the ownership has been joined with that of King’s Newnham.
It is possible that the Monks of Pipewell rented a small portion of the Manor, as they had Grange, or farm, on the site of what is still known as Church Lawford Grange. The Monks were large landowners in adjoining parishes. Of the ecclesiastical early history, there are no records, though there is a list of Rectors from 1300. The Parish Register dates from 1575, but portions are missing. Extensive lime works once existed in the parish, an arm of the canal being extended thereto to facilitate traffic.
Brickmaking was also for a long time a local industry. Farming has throughout the centuries been the staple business of the parish, many families having carried on from father to son, and can be traced back for 300 years or more. Some of the farms are of historic interest. The Blue Boar Farm is so called as tradition records this as the spot where Guy, the Saxon Earl of Warwick, slew a huge, ferocious wild boar, which was the terror of the countryside. As woods in Saxon-Norman times were valued according to the head of swine which could be maintained on the acorns, beechmast, etc., therein, there would doubtless be here and there herds which had reverted back to a state of nature, and became powerful in build and ferocious and savage by nature.
Potford’s Dam Farm, so called from a large dam, known as Potford’s Dam, which formerly existed here to retain the water of a large pool, or lake, possibly made as a fishpond for the Grange of the Monks of Pipewell near by. The pool had to be drained to allow the Rugby and Leamington Railway Line to be made.
